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Thread: Autotrol 255/440-brine tank

  1. #1
    lizinPA is offline Junior Member
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    Default Autotrol 255/440-brine tank

    Had 4-5" salt bridge UNDER water in brine tank. Cleaned out tank including flushing water down through the cylinder in tank. Started system up again, salt setting on 8, regen. every other day. Now, brine tank water level increases 1 1/2 to 2" after each regeneration.

    I would appreciate any advice on what to do next.

  2. #2
    Akpsdvan is offline Senior Member
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    Did you put water in to the brine tank after cleaning out the salt bridge?
    If you did not put water into it after cleaning then the system is refilling to the level that it needs to be or there is a plug in the injector assembly and ball float that is not pulling water out but putting more water in than what is needed and will slowly fill up over time.

  3. #3
    lizinPA is offline Junior Member
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    Injector and air check/ball all cleaned, salt and 4gal water in brine tank. Water level in brine tank continues to rise. I guess only other option is to replace disc valves---maybe 2 and 3 are not closing completely?

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    Akpsdvan is offline Senior Member
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    Look for the injector, front of the valve and under the timer assembly there are two flat plastic screws .. one side has a screen and the other has the injector, if that is plugged in any way that will leave water in the brine tank at the end of the brine cycle.


    Do you have the manual on this unit?

  5. #5
    lizinPA is offline Junior Member
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    Yes, I had removed both large plastic screws, one side with the mesh screening attached, the other having the injector behind it. I cleaned all the parts and put them back. And yes, I do have the manual on this. I also tried manually opening/closing valve discs, and none of the combinations on the cyclical chart caused a vacuum in the brine line. That is why I am now questioning the flapper valves, particularly #2 and/or #3. When automatically going through the entire regen., there is NO point where brine is being siphoned from the tank....only added in.

  6. #6
    Akpsdvan is offline Senior Member
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    Age if the valve?

  7. #7
    lizinPA is offline Junior Member
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    Unit is approx. 7 years old. I'm guessing it's unusually early for this to fail.

  8. #8
    Akpsdvan is offline Senior Member
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    There is one other little valve that is a check valve in side the valve... a part that is unserviceable......... been there ........ arg.........

    If the injector and screen are clean and there is nothing in that little hole in the injector and you set it in the bring draw part of the cycle and you see that the flappers are open that need to be open then my money is on that little inside check valve......

    And people wounder why I like the Fleck valves over the Autorol valves.....

  9. #9
    lizinPA is offline Junior Member
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    Are you saying that if I replace all the disc valves inside this unit, there is still a possibility that it still won't function correctly? Just asking, since that would probably be my next step. Of course, I suppose I could get a new unit (minus the timer)....would that solve the problem of your "unserviceable" part?

    As mentioned previously, I think it is possible that valves 2 and/or 3 are not totally closed during the brine, and I believe that too could cause the no suction problem. Of course, I don't think I can establish this until I disassemble the unit. Or maybe I can't tell even with it apart.

    Other than a sledgehammer, I think I'm running out of options!

  10. #10
    Akpsdvan is offline Senior Member
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    It is possible that the springs that push 2 and 3 are not as good as they should be, pushing like they should... or that the rubber on 2 and 3 are nicked in some way and not covering like they should...
    If in the brine draw you push 2 and 3 to the full closed and you still get no brine draw then replacing them will do nothing save spend money.

    I have no idea what the cost would be for a full body like what you have less the timer..

  11. #11
    lizinPA is offline Junior Member
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    According to everything I have read, the springs have to do with only opening the disc valves and water pressure is what keeps them shut. However, if there is something inside preventing them from closing....how would I know?

    Price for replacing unit less the timer is somewhere around $150.

    I do appreciate your input....doodling with this unit is not exacly my idea of fun!

  12. #12
    Akpsdvan is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by lizinPA
    According to everything I have read, the springs have to do with only opening the disc valves and water pressure is what keeps them shut. However, if there is something inside preventing them from closing....how would I know?

    Price for replacing unit less the timer is somewhere around $150.

    I do appreciate your input....doodling with this unit is not exacly my idea of fun!
    What is the iron and hardness of your water?
    Any sand in the water from the well?

    About the only way to find out if the flappers are not closing right would be to pull one or more and under glass look to see if there is any thing other than a ring where the plastic valve pushes against the flapper.. it will be smooth if all is right, if not then there will be some thing that says this is not right.

  13. #13
    lizinPA is offline Junior Member
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    No iron problem here. When this problem started, I tested the hardness from outside faucet(not softened) and it was 90ppm, inside was 20ppm. I was using a hardness kit that I had for aquariums. I have no idea what the hardness was when this unit was installed. I was not involved in that. There is no sand in the well water.

    Looks like next step is to take unit off of resin tank, but not today! For now I've taken the softener out of the link and unplugged it.
    Last edited by lizinPA; 09-02-2010 at 03:30 PM.

  14. #14
    Akpsdvan is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by lizinPA
    No iron problem here. When this problem started, I tested the hardness from outside faucet(not softened) and it was 9, inside was 2. I was using a hardness kit that I had for aquariums. I have no idea what the hardness was when this unit was installed. I was not involved in that. There is no sand in the well water.

    Looks like next step is to take unit off of resin tank, but not today! For now I've taken the softener out of the link and unplugged it.
    Sounds like some thing is not right, if your outside is 90ppm=5.26grains but inside it is 20=1.16grains, then the system is not working right it should be 0 inside after the system.
    One of the flappers might be staying open while in service and letting untreated water to get by..

    Rebuilding the one you have is one idea, then the other idea is to replace it with some thing like a 5600 with meter... that would be some changing of the in and out plumbing and possibly the distributor tube if the current tube is to big for the replacement valve, or getting a new body save the control..

    If you plan on holding onto the house for the next 10 years you might wish to change controls, if less than 5 change just the body and when it fails again it would be some one Else's challenge.
    Fleck 5600 would be a whole lot easier to work on... so simple..

  15. #15
    lizinPA is offline Junior Member
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    Took the unit apart today. Did not see any damage to the flappers. However, #2 and #3 had a buildup on them. I cleaned them all and reinstalled. Did manual regeneration and it seems to be working. I will wait until it has cycled a few times (set every other day) to see, if indeed, it is now functioning correctly. Keeping my fingers crossed on this! If not, probably look into replacing with the Fleck 5600.

    Thank you for all the guidance and suggestions. I will let you know how things work out!

  16. #16
    Akpsdvan is offline Senior Member
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    If you found some build up on 2 and 3, then I would say that was the problem.. the build up on any of the flappers will keep them from seating like they should and then there are problems that take place.

    So with the cleaning the unit is now pulling the brine like it should?

  17. #17
    lizinPA is offline Junior Member
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    During the one manual regeneration after my cleaning, the system was pulling the brine from the tank. As I said, I'm waiting to see after a few auto regens if it continues to operate properly. TIME will tell!

  18. #18
    Akpsdvan is offline Senior Member
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    If it did in a manual regeneration then it should when it comes time for it to do it on its own, but you are correct in that time will tell..

  19. #19
    lizinPA is offline Junior Member
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    Update...almost a month later....regenerating every 6 days with salt setting on 12. Everything is working properly! YEAH!!

    And, once again, I thank you for your assistance in getting to this point!

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