i have an autotrol 255/460i softener and my brine line will not draw any water from the brine tank, it actually slowly trickles in on the slow rinse cycle. i have been reading the other posts regarding this issue and appreciate the pointers posted there. i plan on taking it apart to see if valves 2 and 3 are have any blockage next weekend.
one thing i wanted to ask is - should I be able to buy the parts to make a brine line (between air check and the line actually in the tank)? or do these have to be ordered specifically from someone who sells softener parts?
i was thinking of getting some tubing and the 1/4" NPT connection for the air check just to see if the line would draw water from a bucket but I could not find the 1/4" plastic connector at the local hardware store. i did not check out the local home depot or lowes yet for this type of part.
if i am not describing it correctly it would be the hose connection that screws on to the air check in the below picture
Water going into the salt tank while in Slow rinse/brine draw means flappers 1 and 2 are leaking. They are the two small ones on the far end of the cam shaft and once they leak there usually is no fix except replacing them. You buy a kit with all the flappers and replace all of them.
You can buy brine line at most hardware stores, just get exactly what you have and the size is usually imprinted on the tubing (not hose) every couple feet.
Thanks Gary I appreciate the help. Is it possible there is some build up on the flappers keeping them open? I'm going to take it apart this weekend and check it out. Any easy way to determine they are bad by opening the valve?
The local hardware store didnt seem to have any softener parts
Replace all your flappers and any gasket where you take things apart to do that Find a manual for the 255 and look at the parts breakdown pictures.
You get the parts from a water treatment dealer (local or online) or some plumbing and/or pump supply houses that sell Autotrol/GE control valves on their equipment.
I took the cam off and took out the screws keeping the top plate on. It did seem like the 2 and 3 flappers were not snug while straight up and down. i took them out and noticed they are actually slanted. is this normal? the slant was away from the part of the valve it is supposed to cover while closed (on the right while looking down from the top), seems to me like they would never actually fully close. as a test, i actually tried flipping them around so they slanted toward the valve and seemed snug put it back together and it still was leaking from the brine line.
i found this online, is this right?
again - thanks for the help. up until a week ago i knew nothing about how these things actually worked
That is the kit that you will need, also check to see if it comes with the springs.
There are spring like parts that help hold the flapper in place.
thanks, it said it did not come with the springs. i did see them in there when i took the top plate off. is it necessary to replace these as well?
It is a good idea to replace the springs at the same time as when the old ones come out they some times don't come out easy or in the right shape needed when going back in.
In the past I have replaced the flapper assembly with out new springs and had to go back and remove the old ones that was re-used with new ones.. so today when flappers are replaced the springs are done at the same time.
It makes little sense to rebuild the valve and not replace the springs. They are pretty cheap. Hey AK, Andy, entire threads have now gone missing LOL.
Yea I am going to order the replacement springs as well, will report back when I have the new parts in
I haven't noticed any threads being modified or deleted.
Originally Posted by NH Master
I am happy to report replacement of the valves and ensuring all my brine line connections were secure has appeared to solve my issue! I also ordered some test strips to see how hard my water was so I could set everything properly on the timer.
Thanks for all the help folks!!