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Thread: Odor on hot water side

  1. #1
    jetjunkie is offline Junior Member
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    Default Odor on hot water side

    We are getting things dialed in at our new home. A kinetico softner with a pre filter and a kinetico RO system has our water looking and tasting great! However, on the hot water side of things I notice a slight sulfur smell. There was a period of a couple weeks where the softener was not doing enough softening. Is this something that will work itself out over time?

    I thought I needed an aluminum anode rod instead of the stock one that came with our new softener. According to a Grainger tech it is not likely the anode rod considering the new softener has only been installed for a little over a month.

    I believe my iron is around 7ppm and the hardness level is around 42. The Grainger guy said those levels necessitate an iron filter. Ouch. I am afraid of the cost of that and hate to think what another filter could do to my water pressure.

    Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

  2. #2
    Driller1 is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetjunkie
    We are getting things dialed in at our new home. A kinetico softner with a pre filter and a kinetico RO system has our water looking and tasting great! However, on the hot water side of things I notice a slight sulfur smell. There was a period of a couple weeks where the softener was not doing enough softening. Is this something that will work itself out over time?

    I thought I needed an aluminum anode rod instead of the stock one that came with our new softener. According to a Grainger tech it is not likely the anode rod considering the new softener has only been installed for a little over a month.

    I believe my iron is around 7ppm and the hardness level is around 42. The Grainger guy said those levels necessitate an iron filter. Ouch. I am afraid of the cost of that and hate to think what another filter could do to my water pressure.

    Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
    I just took the anode out of my hot water heater. Works just fine.
    Trying to help people NOT get cheated ON THE NET.

  3. #3
    NH Master is offline Senior Member
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    Yes, pull the anode altogether and then raise the temp in the water heater to 160. Wait about an hour ( don't let anyone use the hot water) then drop the temperature back down to 120 and flush out the water heater and hot water lines till the water runs at 120 again.

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    Gary Slusser is offline Banned
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetjunkie
    We are getting things dialed in at our new home. A kinetico softner with a pre filter and a kinetico RO system has our water looking and tasting great! However, on the hot water side of things I notice a slight sulfur smell. There was a period of a couple weeks where the softener was not doing enough softening. Is this something that will work itself out over time?

    I thought I needed an aluminum anode rod instead of the stock one that came with our new softener. According to a Grainger tech it is not likely the anode rod considering the new softener has only been installed for a little over a month.

    I believe my iron is around 7ppm and the hardness level is around 42. The Grainger guy said those levels necessitate an iron filter. Ouch. I am afraid of the cost of that and hate to think what another filter could do to my water pressure.

    Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
    Hot water only odor is caused by bacteria colonizing the water heater and using the anode rod to create H2S gas. You have to kill the bacteria or remove the rod and in removing the rod if you scrape any of the material off it, it will fall into the tank and act as if you didn't remove the rod.

    Raising the temp of the heater will kill the bacteria but turning the temp down again will allow new bacteria that come in with the water from the well to colonize the heater as time goes by. And you only need raise the temp to 140f to kill all types of bacteria found in groundwater; including Legionella which is very dangerous.

  5. #5
    jetjunkie is offline Junior Member
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    Thanks. Is this hard to do? I have learned it is accessible under a plastic cap between the in and out. I have been told I will need a break over bar and second person to stabilize the heater. What sort of plug do I need to pick up?

    So everyone agrees that it IS caused by the anode rod? Even though the Grainger tech claims that it is a bigger issue? He said, given the fact that the heater has only been live for just over a month, it is unlikely it would be causing an odor that soon. He claimed a need for an $600 iron filter.

    Is no rod better than an aluminum replacement?

    Quote Originally Posted by Driller1
    I just took the anode out of my hot water heater. Works just fine.

  6. #6
    jetjunkie is offline Junior Member
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    I just have to figure out how to raise the temp. It is an electric WH. To pull the rod, I should shut the cold supply off and drain the WH a bit. Correct? Do I need to cut the power to the unit? Once everything is back on I should raise the temp for an hour, drop the temp back to 120. Should I drain the tank at a faucet or tub, or drain it from the bottom of the tank in basement?

    Quote Originally Posted by NH Master
    Yes, pull the anode altogether and then raise the temp in the water heater to 160. Wait about an hour ( don't let anyone use the hot water) then drop the temperature back down to 120 and flush out the water heater and hot water lines till the water runs at 120 again.

  7. #7
    jetjunkie is offline Junior Member
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    So you agree it is the anode rod? I should just be carefull when pulling to out is what you are saying?

    Raise to 140? Can I just keep it at that temp? If not how do I battle the continued problem?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser
    Hot water only odor is caused by bacteria colonizing the water heater and using the anode rod to create H2S gas. You have to kill the bacteria or remove the rod and in removing the rod if you scrape any of the material off it, it will fall into the tank and act as if you didn't remove the rod.

    Raising the temp of the heater will kill the bacteria but turning the temp down again will allow new bacteria that come in with the water from the well to colonize the heater as time goes by. And you only need raise the temp to 140f to kill all types of bacteria found in groundwater; including Legionella which is very dangerous.

  8. #8
    NH Master is offline Senior Member
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    (Quote) Raising the temp of the heater will kill the bacteria but turning the temp down again will allow new bacteria that come in with the water from the well to colonize the heater as time goes by. And you only need raise the temp to 140f to kill all types of bacteria found in groundwater; including Legionella which is very dangerous.

    Please refrain from posting advice that is potentially dangerous to people. Without the proper knowledge you are giving advice here that could possibly cause serious injury to children and the elderly.
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    You do need to kill the power to the unit before working on it.
    You do need to drain the pressure off before you remove the anode rod.
    You will have a difficult time getting the rod out. Try a socket and a long breaker bar. Leave the water in the tank for weight and stability.
    Leave the anode rod out.
    Drain and flush the tank after you have removed the anode and raised the temperature.

    Do not leave the tank at 140. 140 degree water will scald and is against code. The only way you can leave the temperature at 140 or greater would be if you install a tempering valve, but, even then legionella can propagate in the piping.
    Last edited by NH Master; 02-01-2010 at 02:37 PM.

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    jetjunkie is offline Junior Member
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    Thanks for the clarification on things. That is very helpful. So my only remaining question is how to deal with this long term. Is bacteria and odor going to be a problem even after the rod is gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by NH Master
    You do need to kill the power to the unit before working on it.
    You do need to drain the pressure off before you remove the anode rod.
    You will have a difficult time getting the rod out. Try a socket and a long breaker bar. Leave the water in the tank for weight and stability.
    Leave the anode rod out.
    Drain and flush the tank after you have removed the anode and raised the temperature.

    Do not leave the tank at 140. 140 degree water will scald and is against code. The only way you can leave the temperature at 140 or greater would be if you install a tempering valve, but, even then legionella can propagate in the piping.

  10. #10
    NH Master is offline Senior Member
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    Probably not. If it does come back though consider raising the tank temp to 160 and having a tempering valve installed. regardless of a previous post, do not keep you tank above 120 unless you do the tempering valve thing. Hot water scalding injuries can be very serious. For more scalding information visit www.watts.com and check out the video "danger, scalding lurks"

  11. #11
    jetjunkie is offline Junior Member
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    Thank you! I'll give it a try. Hopefully this is going to take care of things. Getting water dialed in is a lot of work! Thanks again for your help.

    Quote Originally Posted by NH Master
    Probably not. If it does come back though consider raising the tank temp to 160 and having a tempering valve installed. regardless of a previous post, do not keep you tank above 120 unless you do the tempering valve thing. Hot water scalding injuries can be very serious. For more scalding information visit www.watts.com and check out the video "danger, scalding lurks"

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    NH Master is offline Senior Member
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    Glad to have been of service.

  13. #13
    Gary Slusser is offline Banned
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    (Quote Gary Slusser) Raising the temp of the heater will kill the bacteria but turning the temp down again will allow new bacteria that come in with the water from the well to colonize the heater as time goes by. And you only need raise the temp to 140f to kill all types of bacteria found in groundwater; including Legionella which is very dangerous.[/quote]

    Quote Originally Posted by NH Master
    Please refrain from posting advice that is potentially dangerous to people. Without the proper knowledge you are giving advice here that could possibly cause serious injury to children and the elderly.
    __________________
    ummmm LOL you are over your head here ex plumber and should stick with putting pipes together and stay out of water treatment where your ignorance of the subject is showing but please, tell me what you see in my statement as "potentially dangerous" or incorrect in any way?

    Quote Originally Posted by NH Master
    Do not leave the tank at 140. 140 degree water will scald and is against code. The only way you can leave the temperature at 140 or greater would be if you install a tempering valve, but, even then legionella can propagate in the piping.
    Oh old man, now I see the "potentially dangerous" thing you must be referring to above, but reread what I said and then show me where I said to leave the temp at 140f.

    I didn't, although it would be a very good idea because it prevents Legionella, which is a serious health problem that actually is killing people because the "code" as you say, calls for heaters to be set at a max of only 120f. That provids many types of bacteria a perfect home to multiply.

    The problem is that most plumbing codes if any, pay no attention to the potable water quality running through the pipes you guys put together per THE CODE!

    And if you check with the EPA, it actually takes 160f water to be able to scald.

  14. #14
    NH Master is offline Senior Member
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    Raising the temp of the heater will kill the bacteria but turning the temp down again will allow new bacteria that come in with the water from the well to colonize the heater as time goes by. And you only need raise the temp to 140f to kill all types of bacteria found in groundwater; including Legionella which is very dangerous.[/QUOTE]


    How about right there Bunky? Did you say to lower the temperature anywhere after that? The correct answer would be NO.

    You know absolutely Zero about plumbing. You have no credentials to prove that you know anything about anything really. Show the license, show the proof. Show anything at all except the usual BS that you post. When you can prove your statements you can join in a reasonable discussion. Until then, go back to your trailer on wheels. You are arguing with a guy that not only is licensed if 5 states as a master plumber but also is licensed to Teach plumbing apprentice courses as well as the state re-certification plumbing license seminars. Now what have you got in your wallet? other than 13 years of bamboozling folks on the web. Run back to Terry's and cry like a baby Waaaaaaaaaa. They're picking on me Waaaaaaaa

  15. #15
    Gary Slusser is offline Banned
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser
    Raising the temp of the heater will kill the bacteria but turning the temp down again will allow new bacteria that come in with the water from the well to colonize the heater as time goes by. And you only need raise the temp to 140f to kill all types of bacteria found in groundwater; including Legionella which is very dangerous.
    Quote Originally Posted by NH Master
    How about right there Bunky? Did you say to lower the temperature anywhere after that? The correct answer would be NO.
    As you should know, all water heaters were set at 140f in this country until into the 1970s or 80s when it was mandated that they be set at 120f. Since then we are finding all types of bacteria growing in them including Legionella, a very dangerous bacteria that kills people. And now we are becoming dumber'n dumber to the point where we don't realize that too hot water hurts if we are dumb enough to not test the temp before using the water. That's because of energy polices or as you say THE CODE! as if it is from God. IMO, most plumbing codes are to keep dumb ass plumbers straight and make the plumbing industry more money.

    Quote Originally Posted by NH Master
    You know absolutely Zero about plumbing. You have no credentials to prove that you know anything about anything really. Show the license, show the proof. Show anything at all except the usual BS that you post. When you can prove your statements you can join in a reasonable discussion. Until then, go back to your trailer on wheels. You are arguing with a guy that not only is licensed if 5 states as a master plumber but also is licensed to Teach plumbing apprentice courses as well as the state re-certification plumbing license seminars. Now what have you got in your wallet? other than 13 years of bamboozling folks on the web. Run back to Terry's and cry like a baby Waaaaaaaaaa. They're picking on me Waaaaaaaa
    As I have told you repeatedly, I do not have to be licensed and if I wanted a license there aren't any so I couldn't find one anyway.

    BTW, I don't see you mentioning your license in water treatment.

    I also find that your 5 licenses, you pay your money to be able to sit for a test and pass it, like 36 yrs ago when yer daddy was running the business, and then, then you can mail a copy of that license to another state and pay the license fee there and they give you a license in that state. Then to renew you send a check every 1-3+ yrs and you're supposed to be a good'n all knowing plumber God.

    And maybe you are, but here you are, demonstrating your immaturity, and I'm thinkin' bald guy with serious plumbers crack.

    Are you short'n beer bellied too? Maybe give a shot at a gurlie type rock climbing wall place to get a Certificate of Accomplishment to build some self esteem to go along with all those photo copied licenses... and a good long belt.

    Maybe a pair a them spring loaded shoes to put a bounce in your step and make you look taller?

    Or hey! just stay at plumbingzone where you can post all those dumbass plumber lovin' anti DIYer pictures and b itch with'em about 'things'.

  16. #16
    Andy CWS is offline Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser

    IMO, most plumbing codes are to keep dumb ass plumbers straight and make the plumbing industry more money.

    And maybe you are, but here you are, demonstrating your immaturity, and I'm thinkin' bald guy with serious plumbers crack.

    Are you short'n beer bellied too? Maybe give a shot at a gurlie type rock climbing wall place to get a Certificate of Accomplishment to build some self esteem to go along with all those photo copied licenses... and a good long belt.

    Maybe a pair a them spring loaded shoes to put a bounce in your step and make you look taller?

    ...you're supposed to be a good'n all knowing plumber God.

    ...stay out of water treatment where your ignorance of the subject is showing.

    Or hey! just stay at plumbingzone where you can post all those dumbass plumber lovin' anti DIYer pictures and b itch with'em about 'things'.
    Sorry to bother you again Gary Slusser but is becoming increasingly belligerent and abusive all the while resorting to name calling and derogatory remarks on a very personal nature help to solve the OP's water issues?

    Could you please be persuaded to behave more professionally?

  17. #17
    NH Master is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser
    As you should know, all water heaters were set at 140f in this country until into the 1970s or 80s when it was mandated that they be set at 120f. Since then we are finding all types of bacteria growing in them including Legionella, a very dangerous bacteria that kills people. And now we are becoming dumber'n dumber to the point where we don't realize that too hot water hurts if we are dumb enough to not test the temp before using the water. That's because of energy polices or as you say THE CODE! as if it is from God. IMO, most plumbing codes are to keep dumb ass plumbers straight and make the plumbing industry more money.

    Your ignorance is showing again. Plumbing codes have nothing to do with keeping plumbers straight or making money. They are in place to keep ignorant and or stupid people from killing other people through negligence, or stupidity. And it's a good thing you throw the IMO thing in there because IN MY OPIONION you have no clue what you are talking about.

    If you knew anything at all about legionella and how to treat the problem, you would not be posting the 1/2 truths that you are posting. There is no "THEY" anywhere. The decision to lower water temperatures was made State by State by State plumbing boards and had nothing to do with any Federal legislation, rules or otherwise. But hey, keep on arguing with someone that is certified to TEACH licensed plumbers and has served on two plumbing boards cause you know more ?


    As I have told you repeatedly, I do not have to be licensed and if I wanted a license there aren't any so I couldn't find one anyway.

    No, you don't need to be licensed to sell equipment. In this state and all the others around me though, you do need to be licensed. And I doubt you could pass the test anyway and even if you did, with your attitude about rules and such they would probably take it away within 6 months.

    BTW, I don't see you mentioning your license in water treatment.

    State of New Hampshire and State of Maine Filter and Pump Licenses,

    I also find that your 5 licenses, you pay your money to be able to sit for a test and pass it.

    Again, ignorance. You do your apprenticeship, do a year or so as a journeyman and then you can take the test. If you are licensed in one state, another may or may not allow you to sit for the test. It depends on reciprocity and to some extent whether they both use the same code.

    like 36 yrs ago when yer daddy was running the business, and then, then you can mail a copy of that license to another state and pay the license fee there and they give you a license in that state. Then to renew you send a check every 1-3+ yrs and you're supposed to be a good'n all knowing plumber God.

    That is patently incorrect on all counts

    And maybe you are, but here you are, demonstrating your immaturity, and I'm thinkin' bald guy with serious plumbers crack.

    Some hair loss indeed. so what?


    Are you short'n beer bellied too? Maybe give a shot at a gurlie type rock climbing wall place to get a Certificate of Accomplishment to build some self esteem to go along with all those photo copied licenses... and a good long belt.

    6' 1" 195 lbs. I golf, bike, and play tennis at 55.
    What about you?



    Maybe a pair a them spring loaded shoes to put a bounce in your step and make you look taller?

    Or hey! just stay at plumbingzone where you can post all those dumbass plumber lovin' anti DIYer pictures and b itch with'em about 'things'.
    They thankfully, would boot your sorry ass off the floor within a minute or so. We don't take kindly to backwards, uneducated, unlicensed, SALESMEN.

    So........... run back to Terry's and Waaaaaaaaa like a baby Waaaaaaa Waaaaaaaa Waaaaaaaa....

  18. #18
    Gary Slusser is offline Banned
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy CWS
    Sorry to bother you again Gary Slusser but is becoming increasingly belligerent and abusive all the while resorting to name calling and derogatory remarks on a very personal nature help to solve the OP's water issues?

    Could you please be persuaded to behave more professionally?
    You sound as if you are into the adult beverages again Andy... and it's barely after lunch. But come on Andy, you can loosen up some, that WAS funny.

    And how many times must I tell you that I am never going to become like you?

  19. #19
    NH Master is offline Senior Member
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    So Andy, now you and I both have been accused of being drunks

  20. #20
    Driller1 is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by NH Master
    So Andy, now you and I both have been accused of being drunks
    I am willing to bet I have the neatest "plumber's crack".

    Can Gary be more professional?? NO. The old boy is beyond help, IMO.
    Trying to help people NOT get cheated ON THE NET.

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