help sizing out a sediment filter

[cumak]

Hello,

I'd like some help sizing out a sediment filter. First, here's some background on our water problem.

Our house is on well water, and when we moved in about 6 months ago we had the water tested. The report showed that there were no water issues, except for slight hardness which I have not bothered to address yet. We currently have no filters or any treatment equipment on our system.

About 2 months ago, I had the well cap replaced with a new one that seals the well better. The guy who did that work recommended that I chlorinate the well (apparently you should do that anytime you service a well), so I did. Part of that process was to stick a garden hose in the well and circulate water for 20 minutes, and then I pulled the hose out and flushed the well until the chlorine smell was gone (which took many hours).

Ever since I did that, our crystal clear water has been filled with sediment. At first it was very bad, and even though it has improved it is still quite dirty. I'm not sure why it happened, but I guess when I flushed the well it must have stirred things up that had been settling for many years prior.

I'd like to install a Big Blue style sediment filter, but I'm not sure what configuration to use so I'd appreciate recommendations. One or two units? 10" or 20"? What micron rating? For "typical" wells, are the 20" units appropriate or are they overkill? Is using two units appropriate, say a 50 micron followed by a 5 micron? Is it safe to assume that I would have to clean/replace a 10" filter twice as often as a 20" filter?

Thanks for your help.

-Mark

[Driller1]

Hello,

I'd like some help sizing out a sediment filter. First, here's some background on our water problem.

Our house is on well water, and when we moved in about 6 months ago we had the water tested. The report showed that there were no water issues, except for slight hardness which I have not bothered to address yet. We currently have no filters or any treatment equipment on our system.

About 2 months ago, I had the well cap replaced with a new one that seals the well better. The guy who did that work recommended that I chlorinate the well (apparently you should do that anytime you service a well), so I did. Part of that process was to stick a garden hose in the well and circulate water for 20 minutes, and then I pulled the hose out and flushed the well until the chlorine smell was gone (which took many hours).

Ever since I did that, our crystal clear water has been filled with sediment. At first it was very bad, and even though it has improved it is still quite dirty. I'm not sure why it happened, but I guess when I flushed the well it must have stirred things up that had been settling for many years prior.

I'd like to install a Big Blue style sediment filter, but I'm not sure what configuration to use so I'd appreciate recommendations. One or two units? 10" or 20"? What micron rating? For "typical" wells, are the 20" units appropriate or are they overkill? Is using two units appropriate, say a 50 micron followed by a 5 micron? Is it safe to assume that I would have to clean/replace a 10" filter twice as often as a 20" filter?

Thanks for your help.

-Mark

Call the driller back. The well may need a liner. Simple fix, really.

Wells should NEVER pump dirty after they once clean up. If they do, something is wrong.

[cumak]

Driller1 - thanks for the tip. I will try to get in touch with them this week.

In the meantime, I'd still like to install a Big Blue filter and I'm not sure what size or how many units would be reasonable without going overboard. We're a family of four and our well puts out about 5 gal/min. With that flow rate would I have any reason to consider the 20" units, or would 10" suffice? Would I benefit from 2 units in series?

Thanks,
Mark

[Driller1]

Driller1 - thanks for the tip. I will try to get in touch with them this week.

In the meantime, I'd still like to install a Big Blue filter and I'm not sure what size or how many units would be reasonable without going overboard. We're a family of four and our well puts out about 5 gal/min. With that flow rate would I have any reason to consider the 20" units, or would 10" suffice? Would I benefit from 2 units in series?

Thanks,
Mark

If they won't fix it talk to your health department. Now, I do not mean they should fix it for free.

[Gary Slusser]

Driller1 - thanks for the tip. I will try to get in touch with them this week.

Whenever you shock a well the water will usually be dirty for some time after; especially if you have iron in the water. If you have galvanized drop pipe, shocking can cause it to rust prematurely and that can make the water discolored.

Before you buy anything, or have anything else done to the well, run a garden hose outside from the boiler drain valve on the pressure tank and let it run for as long as it takes for the water to clear up. Just pay close attention to the hose that the pump doesn't run dry.

BTW, your well recovery rate may be 5 gpm but your pump probably delivers much more than that. So your peak demand gpm will be more than 5 gpm and any type filter will have to have the ability to service that gpm.

[Driller1]

Once a proper water well is clean, there is NO reason for it to pump dirty, ever. If it does, something is wrong.

[Gary Slusser]

Frankly, that is not true; especially with a rock bore well. You can check that out with your health department there in MI Mrs F.

[Driller1]

Frankly, that is not true; especially with a rock bore well. You can check that out with your health department there in MI Mrs F.

I know what is true. If it pumps dirty, we liner, if we don't fix it, we go with a smaller liner. If that does not work, we re-dill. We never pull off a hole until the water is clean.

How many years have you had a drilling licence, Gary? How many have you drilled or fixed in this century?? Have you EVER had a water related licence?

[Driller1]

Frankly, that is not true; especially with a rock bore well. You can check that out with your health department there in MI Mrs F.

Gary, let me save you some trouble....the rule from the health department IS clean water. That is why I told the OP to call them.

[Gary Slusser]

So Mrs F, do you really mean to say that you line rock bore wells?

And who but the homeowner pays for your expensive "linings" and "new well" whe na correctly sized water filter would clear up the water for usually less than a $1000?

What you suggest sounds like a rip off to me.

[Driller1]

So Mrs F, do you really mean to say that you line rock bore wells?

And who but the homeowner pays for your expensive "linings" and "new well" whe na correctly sized water filter would clear up the water for usually less than a $1000?

What you suggest sounds like a rip off to me.

Yes, why would I line a screened well?

It does not matter if a filter would clean it up or not, it is NOT the code.

[Driller1]

So Mrs F, do you really mean to say that you line rock bore wells?

And who but the homeowner pays for your expensive "linings" and "new well" whe na correctly sized water filter would clear up the water for usually less than a $1000?

What you suggest sounds like a rip off to me.

A liner is just an extension the the casing. We drill 5" PVC. So, we line with 3", two more shale traps and a 3" to 5" K-pack. Just push it down. No big deal at all.

[cumak]

Guys - I appreciate the 'lively' exchange and I will look into the possibility of a liner. But, the well is about 30 yrs old and this just started when I chlorinated it a few months ago so I'm hoping it's temporary.

I'm looking for a quick and inexpensive DIY solution until I know if anything more substantial is required. A Big Blue system seems like a good idea since I currently have no filtration at all, so back to my original question, what configuration of filters would be appropriate? I'm thinking one or two 10" or 20" units, but I don't know how to decide.

Thanks,
Mark

[Driller1]

Guys - I appreciate the 'lively' exchange and I will look into the possibility of a liner. But, the well is about 30 yrs old and this just started when I chlorinated it a few months ago so I'm hoping it's temporary.

I'm looking for a quick and inexpensive DIY solution until I know if anything more substantial is required. A Big Blue system seems like a good idea since I currently have no filtration at all, so back to my original question, what configuration of filters would be appropriate? I'm thinking one or two 10" or 20" units, but I don't know how to decide.

Thanks,
Mark

I did not know it was that old. I would not put any money in it. I was thinking 6 months. Sorry.
Be sure you are not getting a hole in the casing.

[Gary Slusser]

Guys - I appreciate the 'lively' exchange and I will look into the possibility of a liner. But, the well is about 30 yrs old and this just started when I chlorinated it a few months ago so I'm hoping it's temporary.

I'm looking for a quick and inexpensive DIY solution until I know if anything more substantial is required. A Big Blue system seems like a good idea since I currently have no filtration at all, so back to my original question, what configuration of filters would be appropriate? I'm thinking one or two 10" or 20" units, but I don't know how to decide.

Thanks,
Mark

If your water clears up, why do you think you should filter invisible 'dirt'?

It's not going to build up to cause anything a problem and it is harmless and you won't know it's there but... disposable cartridge filters are not a good choice. If you need a filter, a backwashed filter is the best long term choice.

[cumak]

I've thought about using a backwashing filter, but I don't think this is a persistent problem so I'm reluctant to spend $700+ on a system. Also, I don't know where I would discharge 50 gal/day (if that number is correct) from the backwash cycle. I'm in Massachusetts so I wouldn't be able to dig a drywell until the spring, and I don't want to put that kind of load on my septic system.

I thought a Big Blue system would be an inexpensive and easy way to remove the sediment. Hopefully it would just be temporary until my water clears up again. Then I would still have it there if this happens again in the future.

[Driller1]

I've thought about using a backwashing filter, but I don't think this is a persistent problem so I'm reluctant to spend $700+ on a system. Also, I don't know where I would discharge 50 gal/day (if that number is correct) from the backwash cycle. I'm in Massachusetts so I wouldn't be able to dig a drywell until the spring, and I don't want to put that kind of load on my septic system.

I thought a Big Blue system would be an inexpensive and easy way to remove the sediment. Hopefully it would just be temporary until my water clears up again. Then I would still have it there if this happens again in the future.

Check with your local heath department before you dig a dry well. Some states do not allow them. If your state does you likely will have to stay at least 50 foot from your well.

Keep watching your well for a hole in the casing. Water will get dirty, maybe it will be wet around the well head.

[Andy CWS]

I've thought about using a backwashing filter, but I don't think this is a persistent problem so I'm reluctant to spend $700+ on a system. Also, I don't know where I would discharge 50 gal/day (if that number is correct) from the backwash cycle. I'm in Massachusetts so I wouldn't be able to dig a drywell until the spring, and I don't want to put that kind of load on my septic system.

I thought a Big Blue system would be an inexpensive and easy way to remove the sediment. Hopefully it would just be temporary until my water clears up again. Then I would still have it there if this happens again in the future.

A BigBlue filter is a good way to go. You may want to experiment on micron size. Start with a 20-micron. Pleated filters are washable and can be reused a few times.

Although 50 gallons may be a normal discharge for a backwashing filter (depending on size), doing it daily would not be needed. Maybe twice a week, or even less.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II

[Gary Slusser]

A liner is just an extension the the casing. We drill 5" PVC. So, we line with 3", two more shale traps and a 3" to 5" K-pack. Just push it down. No big deal at all.

So tell us how you doing the liner and "shale traps" and reducing the ID to 3" thingies in a rock bore well, how you don't seriously reduce the gpm recovery rate of the rock bore well etc..

A 5" well has 1.0 gals/foot of water and a 3" has .66 gals/ft. That is a serious reduction in storage. That will require the pump to work harder because the static water level will fall very rapidly and much farther down than with a 5" casing. The static water level will be reduced if you block off certain areas of recovery flow from the 5" and 3" areas.

And that can cause water quality issues. That 3" liner will require a 3" submersible pump because the present 4" pump used in the 4" and larger ID casing won't fit a 3" "liner".

Also, cooling of the pump's motor will be greatly reduced by reducing the ID of the casing from 5" to 3". If the motor gets hot enough it will melt the PVC and possibly 'weld' itself to the side of the 4" or 3" PVC liner. That means you may not be able to pull the pump later without damaging the liner etc..

IMO, doing what you describe is a serious rip off of your customers when they could buy water treatment equipment to solve any of their problems that you sell your solutions to "fix"..

And if the state of MI is requiring this BS, it's another reason why the state is running in so much red ink and the cities and industries are failing while violent and other types of crime skyrockets and all that goes along with Mi's democrat politicians and their inherent mismanagement.

[Gary Slusser]

I've thought about using a backwashing filter, but I don't think this is a persistent problem so I'm reluctant to spend $700+ on a system. Also, I don't know where I would discharge 50 gal/day (if that number is correct) from the backwash cycle. I'm in Massachusetts so I wouldn't be able to dig a drywell until the spring, and I don't want to put that kind of load on my septic system.

It really belongs in the septic system based on WQA studies (2 of'em over the last 25 yrs+/-) but, MA decided to not listen and continue to require their groundwater polluting dry well requirement. They are one of very few states that do that, millions of homes use the septic without causing any problems.

I thought a Big Blue system would be an inexpensive and easy way to remove the sediment. Hopefully it would just be temporary until my water clears up again. Then I would still have it there if this happens again in the future.

Maybe you could come up with some other project that will actually improve something in your life while you wait for this temporary situation to clear up...

I take it that you've never replaced a 10" or 20" BB cartridge before. I can tell you that you probably won't want to do it after the first time or very often.