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Thread: removing TDS

  1. #1
    olno186 is offline Junior Member
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    Jan 2011
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    Default removing TDS

    ok I got my TDS tester now what???? I tested the water from pond it reads 101ppm i tested it after clorination 138ppm and i tested it after the carbon filter (1.5 cu ft ) still 138ppm. So do I have to change my carbon or doesn't that have anything to do with TDS?? The water seems fine no taste or oder. I guess what the real Question is ,,is 138 ok?? anyone help with this would be great

  2. #2
    Andy CWS is offline Moderator
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    Default

    TDS is total dissolved soilds. Essentially, anything in your water that is not water of an inorganic nature. Many things can add dissolved soilds but few things can remove them.

    A reverse osmosis is the most common way to remove TDS. It is not necessarily an indication that you need to change the carbon. More importantly, what is the chlorine count before the carbon filter?

    The USEPA generally suggests that 50ppm is ideal for drinking water. 138ppm is not bad and people drink water well over 1200ppm. and don't complain. I would still suggest an RO for consumption purposes.

    That is not to suggest that there aren't other contaminants that one may be concerned with. You are using pond water, so there are other considerations when treatment comes into play, including organics.

  3. #3
    PRR
    PRR is offline Junior Member
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    > is 138 ok??

    It's fine.

    A number like 1,000 might be interesting. As Andy says, people drink water with higher TDS no-problem.

    olno186's related thread:
    http://www.filtersfast.com/forums/ge...orine-tds.html (clorine?? TDS??)

    TDS Total Dissolved Solids is a general test.

    'Total dissolved solids is a non-specific, quantitative measure of the amount of dissolved inorganic chemicals but does not tell us anything about its nature. TDS is not considered a primary pollutant with any associated health effects in human drinking water standards, but it is rather used as an indication of aesthetic characteristics of drinking water and as a broad indicator of an array of chemical contaminants.'
    'the World Health Organization dropped health-based recommendations for TDS in 1993, instead retaining 1,000 mg/L as a secondary standard for “organoleptic purposes.” The test is just too non-specific to be reliable.'
    http://ces.uwyo.edu/PUBS/B1183/TDS.pdf

    TDS of several thousand may sicken cattle. Salt much over 1000 makes water "brackish". TDS below 100 is generally considered very-fine for drinking water. Your 101-138 readings are not a big concern.

    'In humans, taste panels rated the palatability of water with 300 mg/L as "excellent," 300-600 mg/L "good," 600-900 mg/L "fair," 900-1,200 mg/L "poor," and greater than 1,200 mg/L "unusable."'
    http://ces.uwyo.edu/PUBS/B1183/TDS.pdf

    In your other post you say you pull water from a pond, and the county and you have made reasonable effort to avoid or divert any nasty stuff. So I would assume (but would prefer you test) that the dissolved solids are mostly traces of mineral dirt, natural salts and clays. At your 100-200ppm level, that stuff won't hurt you.

    Ideal Drinking water from reverse osmosis, distillation, deionization, microfiltration, etc.. 0-50 PPM
    Often considered acceptable range for carbon filtration, mountain springs or aquifers. 50-140 PPM
    Average tap water. 140-400 PPM
    Hard water. 170 PPM or above
    Less desirable 200-300 PPM

    {from another water-filter site}

    Your pond-water is actually on the low end of "average tap water".

    > from pond it reads 101ppm ...after clorination 138ppm ...after the carbon filter ...still 138ppm.

    The raw pond water TDS is fine. Chlorination should not significantly raise TDS, 101-138 is just normal variation with pond level, water-flow, holding-time, etc. (Hmmmmm.... maybe the holding-tank has sediment, needs flushing?) Carbon-filter removes Chlorine but not TDS (Chlorine is not "solid") so the number should not change much. This is as expected.

    > change my carbon or doesn't that have anything to do with TDS??

    Carbon-filter does not remove dissolved solids. (It reduces dissolved gasses like Chlorine; carbon or its pre-filter will reduce UN-dissolved solids like dirt and peat.)

    Dissolved solids are hard to remove. How do you turn salt-water into fresh water? Either boil the water to leave the salt behind, or pump it through a special membrane, the Reverse Osmosis process Andy mentions. However without other troubles (lime in pipes, soap-scum, salt/mineral taste), or suspicion of fertilizer, pesticide, or industrial runoff, I would not be concerned about 100-200ppm TDS.

    > i was also told that household bleach 5.25% isn't strong enough to kill all ecolie. they say I have to use 12% is this true???

    Someone mis-spoke.

    What you want to get to is a number like 0.001% chlorine in the holding-tank. So a little Chlorine treats a LOT of raw rater. Whether you start from 12% or 5% only affects how much you use: you need more than twice as much of the 5.25% stuff as the 12% stuff. But 5.25% stuff is Laundry Bleach, VERY readily available, usually at Sale prices, probably far cheaper than the 12% stuff even though you have to buy more.

    The actual amount you need depends on the water and changes over time. In Autumn, leaf-debris will suck-up Chlorine. If you are in Maine now, the pond is iced-over and all the leaf-debris is settled-out, you should use lower Chlorine to save money and reduce Chlorine byproduct exposure.

    The cave-man way to adjust chlorine is to smell the water between holding-tank and carbon-filter. There should be a small chlorine smell. The smarter way is to use a chlorine meter according to instructions, which I think you are doing(?). Now the water is sanitary but smells; the carbon-filter absorbs the smell.

    It would be wise to send a sample to an accredited water test lab. In some areas the county tests free or cheap, here I send a sample to a commercial lab and a full set of tests (germs and common toxins) with interpretation costs me $100. In my opinion, it is nice to know my Sodium is low, my Iron and Manganese are high (but not unhealthy; just stains the sink), my Lead, Nitrates, and Arsenic are undetectable. You can't test all these things at home-- it takes training and a lot of equipment. I figure $100 once every few years plus the $50 basic test (germs and nitrates) every year is cheap assurance.

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