![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
Our whole house system uses both a pre and post filters.
Both are in BB housing -- the pre is 10" and the post is 20". I was trying to replace the filters, and the 10" one had not problems, but the 20" was leaking from one spot after the filter was replaced. I tried several times, to no avail. Then I noticed that the o-ring is a bit bigger then the groove on top of the housing. Hmm, I thought, maybe is was somehow stretched? So I ordered a couple of rings (the model number on the packaging sez 151122 WS03X10039). Well, they are also a bit too large. Do I have the wrong ring, or am I missing something else??? Thanks! |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
The o-ring you have is for a GE housing. They would need to match. BB is a generic name for larger filter housings. Find out, if you can, the exact model you have.
I have seen o-rings stretch a little. Usually I am able to gently push it into place. I never cared for BB design in that the o-ring sits on a groove on the top/rim of the housing rather than on the side of the housing. Have you compared the two o-rings? Are they the same size? Have you used any lubricants to the o-ring? Andy Christensen, CWS-II Last edited by Andy CWS : 02-24-2008 at 08:38 AM. |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks -- but I see no markings whatsoever on the canister.
How can I tell (shy of calling the outfit that sold me the system) who made it?? I agree that the ring-in-a-groove is not a great idea. BTW, I have no other sealing material (silicon or otherwise). |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
Is your housing white or blue? Or another color?
Andy |
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
it is (medium dark) blue, the top is black.
|
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
Had the same problem with my 20" o ring although mine was visually bigger as if it was an incorrect o ring. I contacted the ebay seller where I bought and he assured me he would rush me a new o ring. I never got it!! But I fixed the problem toot sweet. Soused some plumbers grease (any big box store) on the o ring. Placed the O ring in the filter cap and installed the cap onto the housing with housing turned upside down (you might not have to do this) to insure the o ring did not drop down. Did all this work with the filter housings inside the bathtub (to drain). Well it worked. I was thinking that I would have to buy a o ring kit and make my own new o ring later. Could possible cut a small o ring section out, 45 degree cuts of course and super glue back together. Anyway just to be on the safe side...Placed the filter housings in a retangle plastic tub and as I monitor gages for equal pressure I also check for leaks. Have yet to find one. Mine was also blue housings Black caps but I have two 20 ".
![]()
__________________
Smooth runs the water where the brook is deep. -William Shakespeare (1564-1616), Henry VI, part II Last edited by coolclearwater : 07-02-2008 at 02:03 PM. |
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
Well, interesting solution... But would have not worked in my case. (1) the system is already installed. (2) they insisted that using any kind of paste is a very bad idea (3) I kept calling until they sent me a selection of rings... none worked.
So, to make a long story... the problem was "solved" when they sent me a brand new set of housing, top and rings. Of course, I had to cut the old set out, and put the new one in -- not fun. But it is back to operational now. What a pain... Thanks for the advice! |
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
Sound like your system was hard piped in. When I was putting my system together I decided to make it more modular. Also since it was not intended for drinking (designed to supply clean water to our tankless water heater) I used braided washing machine hoses. So... nothing really is rigid installed. Actually the filter housing sit on the floor in a rectangular heavy plastic bucket. One of the deciding factors was the space is very tight, like where the old tank water heater was! Very tight area. So snatching the filter units out , no real problem as long as they are hosed in.
FYI - On the Inlet copper line installed a pressure reg valve and set it a @ 80 psi (city can top 110 psi) above that ball valve (ball valves are the best). On the outlet side installed a check valve because something in the copper line install is crossed because I could cut the ball valve and pressure would drop to 0 but after 10 minutes the pressure would creep back to a pressure beyond the pressure reg setting and had danger of blowing the Poly fittings! After I installed the check valve the back pressure is still there but that actually helps because once the flow stops the back pressure really pushes that check valve closed tight. Now we have decided to change the carbon filter (if filterfast will answer my flippin email) to a better one and change the washing machine hoses to PEX Braided hoses (if someone will sell them to me) and install a UV sanitizer and start to drink the water. Anyway glad you hung in there and demanded they make it right for you. I bet we are not the only two trying to deal with super crap o rings.
__________________
Smooth runs the water where the brook is deep. -William Shakespeare (1564-1616), Henry VI, part II |
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
|
Things are still working -- but while replacing my pre filter, I noticed my 10" "big blue" housing has 2 rings!
Wonder what are the chances I can find the right rings for that one. ![]() Last edited by realpro : 07-10-2009 at 09:02 PM. |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
|
|