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Thread: High Iron

  1. #1
    Delmarksman is offline Junior Member
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    Default High Iron

    Hello, I found this forum while doing searches on water softeners. And I admit to being more informed but more confused as to what I need to do.

    I have not done a "Water Test" yet and from reading many of the posts I realize that this needs to be done to truly diagnose the problem.

    That being said, I can tell you that I have stains in the toilet, shower and washer. Clothes, especially whites turn dingy to brown after only a few washes. It's getting to the point that the wife doesn't even want to wash her good clothes at home. I don't blame her.

    I was considering a water softener but after doing some searches, here and elsewhere, I am not certain theat this will help resolve the problem, and infact raises several other questions/problems.

    We do have well water (60' deep, cast iron casing) and live near a brackish creek.

    Right off I assume (bad I know) that it's mainly an iron issue.
    I am concerned about drinking the water, post softener (salt, lack of minerals, leeching, health...), loss of pressure if we install filters and a few other things that I have forgotten since registering and stating this post.

    FWIW, Lowes has a softener on sale almost $200 off, today's the last day of the sale. I am going to grab it and can always take it back if I decide not to use it.

    Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    TIA, Del.


    Edited to add; the Softener is a Whirlpool model WHES40.
    Last edited by Delmarksman; 03-28-2009 at 01:42 PM.

  2. #2
    Andy CWS is offline Moderator
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    Default

    There are philosophies of 'not putting the cart before the horse' and 'you get what you pay for' that are very true in water treatment.

    Bargain-basement softeners are not recommended for troubled waters, especially with high iron.

    Save it in the box till you get a water test done.

    Check for hardness, iron (ferrous and ferric), TDS. How many people would be using water?

    Lots of information is needed before getting optimum results.

    Andy Christensen, CWS-II

  3. #3
    Gary Slusser is offline Senior Member
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    Default

    Del I assume you are from Delaware and a marksman. You wouldn't buy a new gun not knowing anything about the brand or model and based on price alone without knowing if it fits you right?

    Softeners and filters come in various sizes like cars, and you buy one based on how much of whatever is in the water, how many people and bathrooms are in the house and what size fixtures are in the bathrooms and then, the peak demand gpm. The softener or filter has to have enough media/mineral/resin to treat that gpm; that dictates the size. Most softeners are undersized because they are bought based on price or the brand name. You bought a brand that is the same as a Kenmore, North Star, mortonsalt.com, and GE sold at Home Depot; all made by the same company, Ecowater. They are not very good and have terrible warranties and the most complaints from owners.

    I suggest you take it back and start at the beginning; that is a water test for iron, hardness and pH at least.

    I have never heard of a cast iron well casing, what diameter is it? Casing is usually steel or PVC.
    Gary Slusser
    22 yrs in water treatment and well pumps, 13 yrs helping people on the 'net to help themselves.

  4. #4
    Delmarksman is offline Junior Member
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    Default

    Great analogy and Point taken, Definitely understand the need for a water test.

    1 bathroom, 2 adults, 2 children. Peak useage would revolve around showers or clothes washer.

    Casing might be steel, just thought it might be cast. It is 6" with a 1.5 hp(?) pump. My pressure gauge inside the house reads on at 25 psi off at 50.

    Thanks for the help. I will get a test done and get back to you all.

  5. #5
    Delmarksman is offline Junior Member
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    Default Results are in

    Flouride 0.31 mg/L

    Chloride 3.3 mg/L

    Nitrite <0.1 mg/L

    Nitrate <0.3 mg/L

    Sulfate 12.3 mg/L

    Hardness <5.0 mg/L

    Sodium 3.9 mg/L

    Iron 4.39 mg/L

    Alkalinity 28 mg/L

    pH 6.3


    Test report says at bottom; "Does not conform to drinking water standards."



    If I read the report correctly,
    everything is OK to being well below standards, definitely not hard. Just that the Iron is through the roof.
    Is this the reason for the "Does not conform?"

    BTW, took back the Whirlpool softener.

  6. #6
    Gary Slusser is offline Senior Member
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    Yes, acceptable iron is .3 ppm, and pH is 6.5.

    You need an acid neutralizing filter and an iron filter or, since the AN filter would increase the hardness and filter ferric iron and convert some of the ferrous iron to ferric, a softener that can handle the 4 mg/l of iron. I sell them.

    But I question no hardness (<5 mg/l). I've never seen a water with hardness that low, even with pH as low as 4.6.
    Gary Slusser
    22 yrs in water treatment and well pumps, 13 yrs helping people on the 'net to help themselves.

  7. #7
    Delmarksman is offline Junior Member
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    Default

    Guess I should add that the test was perfomed through the State Health Dept.

    Thanks for the help,
    please email/PM me with some price suggestions.

  8. #8
    Gary Slusser is offline Senior Member
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    I don't do PMs or emails, please Visit my Homepage in my Profile after clicking on my Name above.
    Gary Slusser
    22 yrs in water treatment and well pumps, 13 yrs helping people on the 'net to help themselves.

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